Taste McLaren Vale - bringing you quality McLaren Vale wine to your door

Category: Wine

McLaren Vale Wine – 2011 McLaren Vale Scarce Earth Project Shiraz Part 1

Sunday, 12 May, 2013 15:26 Written by shane
0 Comments

The McLaren Vale Scarce Earth Project has just released the third vintage of single vineyard Shiraz.  I have reviewed the project before and an outline of what the project is about and how a winery is judged to be Scarce Earth worthy can be found here.

The 2011 vintage was challenging with wet and cool conditions during the key ripening period.  There was some average wine made during this vintage but as with all years this generalisation is dangerous.   Good management and care in the vineyard and the winery can produce excellent wine even when conditions are “challenging”.   I was looking forward to this tasting to see how the different wineries worked their grapes.

This year I want to concentrate on the geology differences and how the McLaren Vale region has been split up into a number of different areas based not on location but on soil and weather types.  The geological map is shown below and I will reference the various districts in the wine reviews.

McLaren Vale Sub Region Map

 

District 1 also known as the Sellicks Foothills

The soil is categorized as gently sloping fans and level flats formed on gravelly clay out wash sediments. Silty loam over red clay, silty loam over brown clay and in the west, black cracking clay.

Cradle of Hills Row 23 Shiraz ($45)

2011 Cradle of Hills Row 23 Shiraz

Made from the same vineyard as last year and has lovely fresh fruits and florals with white pepper aromas.  The flavours are a little green (maybe some of the grape seeds were a little green) which is not unexpected from the wet vintage conditions.  Clean fruit and acid with minimal tannins.  Some licorice pokes it head through on the back of the palate.

District 2 also known as Delabole.

The soils are similar to District 1 but is further from the ocean and thus has less coastal effects.

Shirvington Wines The Redwin Shiraz ($45)

From a Willunga vineyard close to the Willunga escarpment and I suspect in black clay soils.  Why do I say this?  Well the wine is all about strength.  Strong fruit, chocolate and violets with hints of peat (wich I was not expecting).  The strength continues in the mouth with the peat and violets continuing with the addition of a chocolate finish and the lick of french oak cedar.

District 3 also known as Strout.

The soil is categorized as gently sloping fans and level flats formed on gravelly outwash sediments in southern
4.5km. Silty loam over red clay, silty loam over brown clay and in the west, black cracking clay. Gentle slopes formed on heavy clay out wash sediments in northern 1.5km. Sandy loam over poorly-structured brown clay.  The impact from the ocean is less than in Districts 1 & 2.

Battle of Bosworth Chanticleer Single Vineyard Shiraz ($45)

Summed up with bright fruits, florals and pepper that is long lasting in the mouth.  Probably a little disjointed at this time and needs time in the bottle to be a little beauty.

Battle of Bosworth Braden’s Single Vineyard Shiraz ($45)

From a Bay of Biscay clay soil vineyard and based on this I was expecting strength.  Compared to the other BoB offering that is what was on offer.  The fruit was the hero here with a fine licorice finish.

Halifax Per Se Block ($65)

I have been a bog fan of all the offerings from Halifax and just love the philosophy of Peter (wine maker) who wants his wines to be expressions of the vineyard and the fruit is the key.  Minimal oak influences are seen here.  This wine just continues this focus with aromas of  red and blue fruit (not expecting this for a Shiraz and was definitely a point of difference to the other Scarce Earth wines) with perfume florals.  The flavours go through layers of the plum fruit, licorice, florals and a touch a cinnamon with just a slight lick of oak tannins.  Yes I really like this wine.

Coriole Willunga Old Vine Shiraz ($50)

From a 95 year old vineyard and dark fruit character abounds.  Deep black fruits with a white pepper side dish.  The oak was a little more obvious than the other wines so far but not over done.

McLaren Vale Wines – 2013 Vintage Report

Saturday, 27 April, 2013 22:21 Written by shane
0 Comments

Well Vintage in McLaren Vale is all but over (I suspect that some grapes destined for fortified wine are still to be picked) and it is time to reflect on the Vintage.

The lead up to the Vintage period was looking so good it had us all salivating.  The winter rains had subsoil moisture levels higher than previously recorded.  This meant that the vines did not need watering until quite deep into Summer.  The beginning of Summer was quite mild with little rain that indicated a potential for a long ripening period for the grapes.  No storm activity was also appreciated by the vines.  Leading into January I was hearing that the coming vintage was shaping up to be even better than 2012 (2012 was considered by many as being the best vintage conditions for the last 15 to 20 years).

McLaren Vale Shiraz (Marius Vineyard)

Then came January and February with high temperatures and effectively no rain.  This combination brought on grape maturity very quickly.  An example of this was at the Marius Vineyard where picking was organised for early March but had to be brought forward by 2 weeks due to the high rates of sugars developing quickly.

The order of grapes being picked was also different than “normal”.  In most years white wine varieties are picked before red wine varieties.  Well this year we had Shiraz frequently picked before any white grapes from the same property.

Grape De-stemmer

With the hot weather and the quick development of the grapes the wineries were stretched with a compressed time frame to process a below average volume of grapes.  No sooner had fermenters emptied they were filled again.  It was tight and long hours were to be had but I believe most if not all grapes that were supposed to be picked were.

The result was a number of very tired people working long hours to make what looks to be a high quality wine.  The key to this vintage seemed to be keeping close eye on the vineyards and picking at the right time and having the capacity in the winery to cope with the compressed time frames.  There will be some excellent wines come from this vintage but at this stage the overall analysis would be not as good as 2012.

Pressing the Barbuckle Project Shiraz

One pivotal milestone for the 2013 was that I have made a small volume of wine – the Barbuckle Project Shiraz.  More on his one later.

Backpacker’s McLaren Vale Style

One area I would like to put my opinion out there is all about the back packers who descend on McLaren Vale.  For the first time I met some of these people and got to know a little about what they do.  Most of the above group come from Europe and are traveling around Australia.  These people want to pick the grapes so earn some money to survive on while backpacking.  There seems to be a limited number of Aussies who want to pick the grapes – it is hard work for people that have not done it before.  I picked grapes 2 days this year and I was totally stuffed by the end of the day.  There is a tide of distain for these backpackers, like they should not be here.  So here is the thing – who else is going to pick the grapes?  Who else is going to go home to speak about the interesting times they had in Australia and what wonderful wines they tried here?  Who else is going to look for the wines that were made from the grapes they picked?

I would like to put it out there that we should welcome these people here during vintage – maybe we should create some facility where they can stay with their old Combi Vans, where they can have a shower and not be hounded to move on when they find a place to stay over night.

This year a met a few of these people (see the picture above) and they are wonderful people wanting to experience this beautiful country of ours (who would blame them) and to do this earn some money doing something that most of us do not want to do.  I do not have all the answers and yes I understand these are general statements but lets see how we can do this better next year.  You never know the group above, and others like them, may spark the next generation of world wide Australian Wine drinkers!

Purchase McLaren Vale Wine – Backyard Shed Cru Red Wine Pack #8

Sunday, 24 March, 2013 16:19 Written by shane
0 Comments

Yes folks it is that time of year – the half yearly release of the Backyard Shed Cru tasting six pack.  This is where members get these 6 wines automatically sent to them twice every year (timing dependent on when individual join).  These packs are a selection of wines from the small producers – the ones who make their wine in the backyard shed.  If you are not already a member then you can join by checking out the membership page here.

Below are the tasting videos for the 6 wines:-

Backyard Shed Cru Red Pack #8

2010 Fork in the Road Shiraz

2010 Marius Sympatico Shiraz

2008 Thorpe Wines Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon

2010 Ducks in a Row “Straight Up” Mataro

2008 Zimmermann Shiraz

2010 Sabella “J Petrucci & Son” Shiraz

Buy McLaren Vale Wine – Backyard Shed Cru Tasting Pack #8

Saturday, 09 March, 2013 15:02 Written by shane
0 Comments

Red Pack #8

2010 Ducks in a Row Straight Up Mataro

From a vineyard near Willunga (in the McLaren Vale region) and was matured in 7 year old oak.  The wine making direction to show off the fruit and not just load it up with obvious oak tannins.  I get vanilla plums (maybe a plum stored in a jar with a vanilla bean) but there is also a hint of blue character that is most intriguing.  There are side dishes of Mulberry and maybe even some rhubarb.  The grape tannins work to provide a well structured wine that has length on it’s side.  I am going to keep a few bottles to see how this wine will age.

2008 Thorpe Wines Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon

Made from estate grown from the vineyard on the corner of Malpas and California roads (on the flat between McLaren vale and Willunga).  When I try this wine I have one word resonating – balanced.  All elements are balanced and not one thing over powers any other.  The aromas show the expected black current with ironstone, slate and black olives.  The flavours are smooth but show strength – black current, slate, black olives, and cedar notes.  The tannins are there but not over powering.  The one unusual element I get is the iodine character.  This characteristic seems to be a trait of this particular vineyard.  All in all a smart effort.

2010 Sabella J. Petrucci and Son Shiraz

I have tried the last 3 vintages of Shiraz that Michael Petrucci has made and I think each year has been better than the last.  This wine made the McLaren Vale Scarce Earth Project for 2010 wines.  I suppose one should make good or better wine from the 2010 vintage, but I get a sense of more.  I get the feeling that Michael is getting to understand his craft and his raw materials (grapes from his father’s vineyard) better. The wine shows the aromas expected from Shiraz and a mild dose of white pepper.  I really enjoyed the strength brought on by the fruit as much as any oak treatments.  There is plenty of acid here also so the wine should last for ages.

2008 Zimmermann Shiraz

Made with love from the foothills of the Willunga escarpment.  The grapes sitting proud on the valley slopes in this small part of the McLaren Vale district that are tendered by a couple that are looking to enjoy a life of grape growing, wine making, selling and a good wholesome environment for a Bed and Breakfast style accommodation.  With wines like this they are doing a number of things right.  The 2008 vintage was hot and challenging and they got their fruit picked and processed before the heatwave did it’s damage.  The wine has the aromas of lifted plum with side servings of pomegranate, cherry and rhubarb plus just a sprinkle of white pepper.  The flavours followed plum and cherry up front with some integrated oak tannins and just a hint of licorice on the finish.  This wine has plenty of time left in it but why wait.  I had a bottle recently with a juicy steak, creamed potatoes and steamed beans – lovely.

2010 Marius Sympatico Shiraz

The grapes for this wine come from a wonderfully complex vineyard – the soils have been transported from the Willunga Escarpment down to the foothills below.  The soil is rocky and sparse and the vines do their bit by struggling through each year.  In 2010 I helped pick some of the grapes that went into making this wine.  Mr Marius Wines himself – Roger, does not allow me to purchase wines often to have them available for sale but I talked him into releasing a small amount.  The wine is all about power and as soon as you open the wine it hits you – brambly and dark plum with some course black pepper.  After leaving the wine in the glass for a while the wine transforms with some finesse appearing with lavender and cardamon.  The flavours are similar to the aromas lots of plum and bramble fruits with lavender and licorice coming through.  The tannins here have strength but not disruptive to the fruit – an interesting balance.  This wine really needs a few more years in the bottle or at least give the wine significant time in contact with air before you drink it.  We tried it the other day with a Beef Burgoyne which was a wonderful match.

2010 Fork in the Road Shiraz

Another wine from the McLaren Vale Scarce Earth Project.  This wine from the Old Oval Estate is from a vineyard on Sand Road and has the same geology as the J. Petrucci & Sons wine also in this pack.  The wine aromas start off with cherry and blackberry fruits mixed with a dustiness of tannin.  The oak character is minimal here so I expect these tannins to be from the fruit (eg pips).  There is some vanilla coming through – an indication of American oak influence there.  This wine was so engaging that after smelling the wine my mouth was salivating.  Interestingly, after the first sip I was still hooked and wanted more – always a good sign.  The flavours were the same fruits on the front of the mouth and the oak and tannin on the back of the palate.  Not what a lot of people would call a classic wine but one I believe many people would just enjoy to drink.

McLaren Vale Wines – Mitolo Wines

Sunday, 17 February, 2013 17:55 Written by shane
0 Comments

Mitolo Wines is part of the Mitolo Group.  This group includes one of the largest potato and onion producers in the Southern Hemisphere and is also one of the largest Olive Oil suppliers through ollo Oils.  Frank Mitolo, who manages the whole group had an interest in wine that took him to amateur wine making in the 1990′s and undertaking wine making course led to Mitolo Wines.  Ben Glaetzer can on board as a business partner and winemaker in 2001.  Ben is no longer the winemaker but his influence remains with the Reiver Shiraz which is Barossa sourced fruit.  The most of the fruit in Mitolo Wines comes from the Sellicks area of McLaren Vale.

In early 2013 a Mitolo Wines cellar door was opened in the “The Producers” facility on Branson Road, McLaren Vale.  Seeing it was so close I just had to drop in and try the wines………

Jester Range

2012 Vermentino ($22)

Another wine of this variety that is making it’s way into the market.  Still considered an emerging variety and I am seeing quite a variation in quality while the vineyards and winemakers are finding out how to best treat this variety.  This wine I find intriguing.  Not for the nectarine, citrus and dried herb character, but for the low alcohol crispness (showing not all wines need to be alcohol monsters) and the almost salty finish.  This salty finish makes me think of seafood – particularly sardines.  Not the sardines in a can but fresh sardines skewered and BBQ grilled.  If you have not tried this variety before then I suggest this wine is one to try.

2012 Sangiovese Rose ($22)

Firstly it is great to see a Rose being made in the vineyard and winery as Rose – not just some free run juice or a portion of juice separated from the skins leaving the rest to make the “serious” wine.  Here the grapes were hand picked, cold soaked overnight and then the juice removed from the skins quickly.  This is the style Australians should drink more of a dry light wine just made for lunch time consumption.  There are layers of creaminess, red fruits, cleansing acid and a savory finish.  Bring on the Ploughmans Lunch.

2010 Shiraz ($25)

This wine spends 14 months in the barrels used the previous vintage for the GAM Shiraz and helps to produce a good everyday drinking Shiraz that has the McLaren Vale traits of plums and dark blackberry.  The French oak use is obvious more with the aromas as the wine has a very soft tannin structure that tells me this wine is ready to be consumed now.  With the softer tannins I could see this wine being consumed at a Chinese Banquet with things like sizzling steak, Mongolian Lamb and Chicken with Black Bean.

2010 Cabernet Sauvignon ($25)

20% of this wine is made in the traditional Amarone style where the grapes are picked and placed on drying racks.  The drying concentrates the flavours before the grapes are crushed and wine made.  In this case the grapes come from McLaren Vale and are transported to Virginia (North of Adelaide) and placed on Potato drying racks.

The wine is currant and pip centric.  The intense plum and currant character invades both the aromas and flavours.  The tannins give you the feel that you are crunching on some ripe grape pips.  The concentrated elements lead to a lingering after effect.  Well worth your 25 bucks.  I am thinking BBQ lamb chops with this one.

Mitolo Wines lineup

Single Vineyard Wines

2009 GAM Shiraz ($58)

When I first herd about this wine I was trying to work out what the blend was – Grenache and something and something with the Shiraz.  I could not have complicated this or been more off the mark.  The GAM is the first letter of each of the Mitolo children.

Made from single vineyard fruit from the Sellicks area of McLaren Vale this fruit gets to know new french oak barrels quite well.  Sweet oak notes mixed with the perfume of fresh plums and some dried herbs sees a silky smooth wine that is not over oaked as there is plenty of fruit character to soak up all the oak it has seen.  I suggest this wine needs to see a few more years in the bottle before it would go well with a beef wellington.

2009 Reiver Shiraz ($58)

Sometimes one cannot get away from the Barossa and this is one of those times through the influence of Ben Glaetzer who is a partner in the business.  The Reiver Shiraz fruit is sourced from  Greenock and wars the Barossa all over it.  The wine is dark and brooding with the hints of plum, raspberry and licorice.  There is a deep earthiness here that has dried oregano mixed with just a vanilla hint (some American oak here I sense).  Needs time and food.

2009 Savitar Shiraz ($80)

Selected rows were kept aside from the vineyard.  This fruit was from the rows next to the Almond trees.  Why does this matter, I hear you ask.  Well the trees compete for the soil moisture and thus these vines are more water stressed thus producing lower yields.  With the lower yields the flavour from the vineyard is packed into less grapes and thus these berries have more flavour than the rest of the vineyard.  In 2 words the wine is intense and smooth.  I suspect there has been some American oak used here as a minor oak component as one can get the toasty sweetness of the oak of the American kind.  Plums and blackberries packed around some dried herbs with a somewhat mouth drying (tannin) finish.  Needs lots more time in the bottle before getting let loose.

2008 Serpico Cabernet Sauvignon ($80)

A fully Amarone style as discussed above.  The wine was fermented on skins for 2 weeks and then left on skins for another 3 weeks before pressing.  This delay in pressing helps soften the wine as the Amarone process can produce aggressive tannins.   I have only tried a few Amarone style Cabernets and I was really taken with this one.  There was intense fruit character with the same dried herbs I got with most of the other reds.  This tells me that the oak that these wines see is similar across the range.  I also get a hint of eucalyptus and menthol or mint.   The tannins are very much in balance here and all that is needed is a bit of time.  As an indicator – I do not drink much Cabernet but I took a bottle of this home with me.

« Older Entries

Free Blog Notification Subscription