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McLaren Vale Wine – Foggo Wines Part 1

Saturday, 04 August 2012 23:09
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Foggo Wines Cellar Door

One of the joys of the large number of cellar doors in McLaren Vale is the unearthing of the different or unusual.  Some small makers differentiate themselves by small scale winemaking techniques or different varieties.  In this case Herb and Sandie have their own patch of McLaren Vale where they are fiercely determined to do things their own way.  From old vines that are dry grown (others would irrigate) to fermenting in oak where the barrels are turned on their side with the top knocked out.  When fermenting is over the tops are returned and the barrel is then used.  The main point of difference is the age on the wines – the wines are kept and aged at the winery until Herb believes the wine is ready.  They do the cellaring for us.  I am sure their accountant does not like this but I believe they do not care.

Anyway we should talk about the wines…..

2005 Wooded Chardonnay ($25)
Straight away I was concerned about a 2005 Chardy – I was initially thinking that they could not sell the wine and that was the current vintage available.  Then I found out that the wine spent 5 years in oak and the oak varied from 5 years old up to new oak – now I was concerned that I was going to taste a wine that was so full of oak that I was going to be drinking splinters.  Well I was wrong on both counts.  The wine was held back and released when the winemaker considered it was the correct time plus the wine was so much more about balance than I was expecting!  The aromas were a complex mix of peach stone as well as the peach fruit and an interesting whiff of pear.  The flavors started with peaches and some underlying cream that helped provide an interesting mouthfeel to the wine.  The finish had an acid zing so it was not flabby at all.  The overall view was the wine was not over oaked.  This is unashamedly a complex wine that is desperately in need to food when drunk – and it should not be disappointed.

N/V Sparkling Grenache ($18)

I was so interested in this wine and was met with something different again.  The wine is made in a Rose style from 1920 planted vines.  At this price the wine is made in the Charmat method – but this is of no concern.  The aromas were dominated by glaciated cherries, raspberries and chocolate covered lollies – how different.  There is some age flavors apparent that added to the complexity of the red fruits, the light oak touch and the dry finish.  Very interesting use of the Grenache grape.  Again a food wine but would also be suitable as the Sunday session tipple.

2006 Old Bush Vine Grenache ($30)

There is an emphasis on the dry grown old vine grapes here and not the least showing up as 15.8% alcohol.  This alcohol is not apparent in either the aromas or flavors so there is plenty of both to pull this off.  The wine shows cherries and raspberries with nice oak influence plus interesting florals into a complex mix.  The age is evident with the wine and I expect that the wine needs to be drunk now.
2007 Old Vine Shiraz ($30)The wine is made from the grapes from 96 year old vines that were dry grown.  Here is the concentration you expect from such a pedigree and the glass is full of plums, blackberry, pepper and hidden in the depth of that glass is hints of smoke.  The age on the wine is just right and perfect to drink now with big slabs of beef.

Wild Thing Shiraz Cleanskin ($15)

A younger wine and it shows with lifted black fruits and an cardamon aromas with the clean fruits of blackberry and dark cherry.  This is a cellar door popular champion.

Foggo Wines Red Dodge

2006 Red Dodge Shiraz ($35)

Named after the red Dodge Barrel truck that sits outside the front of the cellar door when not in use.  This red is made in a contrasting style to the Old Vine Shiraz where American oak is used.  One can pick the sweet American oak influence on the aromas and flavors.  The wine has a level of freshness I was not expecting from a 6 year old wine.  There is berries and more berries with an interesting floral finish.  Worth checking out to compare between American and French oak influenced wines.

2007 Cabernet Sauvignon ($30)

This 100% Cabernet was open fermented in stainless steel, foot tread and then cold soaked in French oak.  The aromas showed herb characters with blackcurrent and dark chocolate.  The grapes for this were definitely as there was no green capsicum tones.  The flavours were black orientated – blackberry and chocolate with cedar based tannins.

2005 Hebertus Reserve Shiraz ($50)

Made from the fruits from 75 and 97 year old vines and the wine was aged in 4 year old French oak this wine has the aromas of plum and dark chocolate one expects from good McLaren Vale Shiraz.  The flavours were exactly the same as for the aromas that just showed a seamless experience for the consumer.

N/V Myriah Sparkling Shiraz ($35)

This is the wine that just brings me back again and again – a non vintage bottle fermented Shiraz.  The aromas show a fruit depth but is moves over for for the layers of chocolate and a myriad of spices.    there is a velvety mouthfeel that gives up the flavours of the plum and pepper of the Shiraz and the licorice of the blended aged material.  Bring on a serving of roast turkey with cranberry sauce and pleas leave the bottle.

Next week check out my review of Foggo Wines sweet wines.

McLaren Vale Wine – Wirra Wirra Part 2 The Reds

Saturday, 28 July 2012 20:20
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Wirra Wirra Cellar Door

Check out Part 1 of my review of the Wirra Wirra wines and cellar door.

Wirra Wirra is one of the very well known icon wineries from McLaren Vale.  The cellar door is large and inviting and is staffed by friendly and knowledgeable staff – always a good start.  The original owner (Greg Trott) was known for his fierce commitment to McLaren Vale wine industry but also had a sense of quirkiness.  This comes out in some of the names of their wines – such as the Catapult Shiraz.  You know it that there is a full size catapult at the cellar door.

Another feature of the cellar door and winery complex is the bell.  This bell is 3/4 of a tonne and was rescued from a wreckers yard and they got it from a Norwood Jesuit Church.  This bell is called the Angelus Bell and also forms the name for the signature Cabernet from the winery.  This bell is now some what an icon in its own right and the bell is rung at the start and end of each McLaren Vale vintage and other suitable celebrations.

The cellar door has BBQ’s available for those that want to BYO food and an excellent covered area.  You can purchase wines by the glass at the cellar door so why not spend an afternoon with friends at a well known McLaren Vale winery.

Anyway what about the wines……

2011 Original Blend ($24)

The story of the Wirra Wirra success must always have the tale of the “Church Block”.  The original Church Block was a Grenache and Shiraz blend taken from the vines from the Bethany Chapel vineyard near the winery.  The blend moved from this McLaren Vale classic to the current Cabernet based blend.  After much feedback from the wine drinking public in the know about the Original blend caused the thinking that this blend needed a come back.  This wine is available at the cellar door but I suspect that the quality and price will see a wider appeal.  The aromas show the red fruits of Grenache and the pepper of Shiraz while the flavors show off the red and black fruits of the two varieties and an intriguing spice blend.  Tannins are there but there is a soft finish.  For me forget the current day Church Block and got for the Original.
2011 Esperenza Tempranillo ($35)

A new lable for cellar door customers only and is a play towards the Spanish alternate varieties.  With this Tempranillo why not – the aromas have bright cherry and the funky mushroom characters.  The flavors showed an almost dirty forest floor character with the cherry and mushroom taking centre stage.
2011 Esperenza Monastrell ($35)

Most wineries in McLaren Vale either call this variety Mourvedre or Mataro – but the Spanish call it Monastrell.  The earthyiness shows as expected on the nose with an interesting licorice finish.  The flavors had the marks of the variety – cherry, meaty and earthy.  In this case the wine was significantly liter than expected.  This light character may be a product of the wet and difficult 2011 Vintage.
2007 Church Block ($20)Good to see an older release from the winery at the same price as the current installment.  However I was disappointed.  The aromas were closed and the flavors were stewy and very short.  Not for me.

Cork Church Block

2010 Church Block ($20)

Lifted fruits and what I consider to be typical Church Block with integrated oak with the nice fruit.  The problem I have with this wine is not the value or the price point but just when I try it I am just not inspired to drink a second glass.  For me the Church Block is an average wine that has been a great marketing success for Wirra Wirra but I just do not look forward to the next sip.  Sorry guys this one is just not for me.

Wirra Wirra Catapult

2010 Catapult Shiraz ($24)

The addition of a small amount of Vioginer can make such a difference in a wine and this one shows this addition can be balanced and not over done.  The aromas are lifted with hints of apricot but mainly fresh plums.  The flavors continue with the lifted theme – there is lots of fresh fruit compote with some cardamon mixed in for good measure.  The acid oak and fruit is balanced and lingering.  For me worth the price up from the Church Block.
2010 Woodhenge Shiraz ($30)

In a word dark.  From a good vintage and it shows with aromas of plum essence and lifted cedar from the oak.  The flavors were lighter than expected on the mid palate but the tannin structure is very good and it leaves you with a lingering plum experience.

2010 Sparrow Lodge Cabernet Sauvignon ($30)

Another of the cellar door only wines and another reason to check out their cellar door.  Straight away the cassis and mint aromas are alluring that just continues into the flavors.  I like the fact there is little green character in the wine so the fruit was ripe when picked.  Well done to the Wirra Wirra team for this one.  The wine comes from the gap between Church Block and The Angelus wines so a mid tier wine was warranted.

Absconder Grenache

2010 The Absconder Grenache ($65)

Cellar door only and made from 90+ year old vine fruit from Blewitt Springs and McLaren Vale fruit.  The aromas are alluring with perfume and spiced red fruits – good enough to eat.  The flours show layers of depth with red fruits and tannins structured all over the place.  This is why I am in love with McLaren Vale Grenache – when done properly.  This wine is just so impressive and not only wether the asking price but also the time effort and money just to visit the cellar door just to have the honor of tasting this wine – let alone aging able to the purchase such a wine.  One of the best Grenache wines I have ever tasted.
2008 RSW Shiraz ($80)

With oak maturation for nearly 2 years and 40% of that oak being new barrels one seances this wine would be about strength.  My expectations were met with concentrated fruit that is balanced with the tannin structure from the oak and fruit tannins.  In a word – depth.
2009 The Angelus Dead Ringer Cabernet Sauvignon ($65)

This is a classical Cabernet that would give any Australian Cabernet a run for it’s money – so move over Coonawarra.  As for the Absconder and the RSW this wine is all about strength and character.  One for all the Cabernet drinkers out there that should not be missed.

McLaren Vale Wine – 2010 Inkwell Shiraz

Saturday, 14 July 2012 23:12
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For those of you that have been following both the Lonely Grape blog and now the Taste McLaren Vale blog will probably know the name Inkwell.  I have been following Inkwell and more importantly the owner – Dudley Brown, for as long as I have been back in the Vale.  I have always thought it was “interesting” that an American from California has a vineyard in McLaren Vale!  The other thing that draws me in is Dudley’s passion towards the wine industry in general and McLaren Vale in particular.

The other item I enjoy with Dudley is the Inkell wines.  I have enjoyed his Shiraz since my exposure to the 2008 Shiraz.  I also like the journey regarding the Zinfandel from his vineyard.  Each vintage that produced a wine so different from the previous.  To me showing not only the normal vintage variation but also the understanding of the vineyard.

Anyway I should discuss the wine in question.  The bottle I had was a Cleanskin so I do not have a bottle shot, however I have shown the inspiration for the label – the inkwell ink dot!

Inkwell Label

2010 Inkwell Shiraz ($30)

The first thing one notices is the colour or more correct the colour density.  This wine is almost inky in concentration.  So dense in fact that the wine needed more than 2 hours to show it’s best?  Also showing me this wine will have a long life, but I am not sure there will be much of it left in 7 years time.

The aromas continued with the dark theme with dark fruit compote with an emphasis on cherries.  I know there was oak maturation in making this wine but none of that could be really seen on the nose.  Maybe the wine was so dense that it was not ready to give up the oak aromas.   The flavors were – yes you guessed it, dark.  There was fresh blackberry mixed with a bit of satsuma plums.  This time one does get some oak structure – mainly French oak character.  The wine finishes with drying tannins mixed with a hint of violets.  The wine is not shy in the alcohol stakes but one does not notice because of all the complexity and the bigness of the fruit just pulls it all off.  In this case the individual components are no way even close to the effect of the whole.  This wine has just so much going on.  If I was so encore this wine it would be very high  This wine needs food with flavor – lots and last of flavor.  I enjoyed this wine with a big, big steak and it was just so good.

My understanding there is not much of this wine so if you like big bold Shiraz than this is a wine you should find and put down for at least a couple of years.

McLaren Vale Wine – Bellevue Estate

Sunday, 03 June 2012 21:15
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In some ways Corey Vandeleur was destined to make wine.  His parents owned the McLaren Vale local pub until he was a teenager.  He worked at Magleri’s, Hardys Tintara winery and had a stint overseas in California.  His dream started with using some cuttings from Maglieri’s vineyards to plant a 10 acre vineyard just off the Main Road across from the McLaren Vale Visitors Centre.

Only fruit from his vineyard goes into Bellevue Estate wines.  The winery is in front of the vineyard and Corey seems to approach his wines in a minimal handling way.  Each time the wine is handled (eg pumped) some flavor can be striped from the wine – thus not not making the best wine he can.

There is no cellar door at the winery, however one can try the wine at The Bahn (a restaurant also on McLaren Vale’s main street and owned by Cory’s brother, Ben).  I have now tried the last 3 vintages of the resultant wine and I can attend that each vintage has been an improvement  from the previous one.  This wine was awarded 5 stars at a Winestate Magazine new release tasting.

2010 Bellevue Estate Shiraz ($20)

Straight away the aromas showed a depth one does not normally find on a $20 wine.  As you expect there is plum fruit but the aromas of white pepper, mixed spice and a little vanilla (from the proportion of American oak).  The bottle I was tasting from had been open about 2 hours and a slight hint of musk was showing – I suggest that with increased breathing this musk could become more prevalent.

As with the aromas, the flavors shown depth – in this case some of the black fruits such as black cherry and blackberry with just a hint of blue fruit thrown in.  lots and lots of mocha chocolate dominates the mid and back palate.   The American and French oak influences are obvious and the tannins are drying, neither are over powering but it makes me think this wine will will be at it’s best in around 3 to 5 years.

The wine begs for food – big flavor food such as a beef rago and with a little patience one will have an absolutely enjoyable experience drinking a bottle or two.  At this price and quality the wine is absolutely a “should buy” from one of McLaren Vale’s smallest wineries.

McLaren Vale Wine – Graham Stevens Wines

Sunday, 27 May 2012 21:49
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Graham Stevens Wines Cellar Door

Happy 3rd birthday to Graham Stevens Wines.  I have been a big fan of the relatively new venture for Graham and Caroline.  They both work very hard to make their winery successful and I wish them all the success I can.  Three key criteria make their cellar door a must for McLaren Vale wine visitors.  Firstly, you always get a smile and Graham will come over and shake your hand.  This approach makes you feel welcome.  Secondly, they control all aspects of the process.  They even do their own bottling.  Thirdly, Graham understands what the consumer is looking for and the wines are consistently good or better.  Do yourself a favour and check them out.

The man himself - Graham Stevens

2011 Clare Valley Riesling ($14)

A well priced white wine – surprisingly a Riesling, as the only white wine from Graham Stevens Wines.  There is a nose full of limes with just a hint of the lime zest and the flavors not only have the limes but the lemons as well.  There is not as much acid as the more classical Eden Valley Rieslings I have been drinking so I do not put this up there as a classical Riesling.  However those wines are sometimes criticized about having too much acid and many consumers would like to see this toned down.  If that is the case the this is a wine for you.  At this price it is a steal!

2011 “The Cousins” Grenache Rose ($14)

This light pink wine has the aromas of sweet strawberries and the flavors of cherries and strawberries.  There is a little acid tingle on the tongue which cleans the palate after the sugar from the wine (not too much sugar) which makes the mouth ready for more.  Definitely a summer wine.

2009 Arrogant Cleanskin ($9)

This is a 50%:50% blend of Shiraz and Grenache.  First produced as a marketing exercise this 2009 wine is even better.  The wine is not complex but it is just good solid fruit driven wine.  The red fruits from the Grenache dominate both the aromas and the flavors.  If you are looking for a great value wine that shows lots of fruit character (instead of lots of cheap oak) then you could not do better than this wine.

2006 Vat 52 ($18.59)

I have tried this wine many times of the last year or so and the wine just continues to sit up and say please drink me.  A blend of 50% Shiraz, 30% Grenache and 20% Cabernet is interesting as it is ready to drink almost straight away but the wine will age gracefully.  At this time the Cabernet black current aromas seems to be coming through more than I remember but the redness of the Grenache plays an important part. All in all an interesting blend that seems to work.

2006 Stevens Family Shiraz ($24)

A new release bit in the same mould of the previous release.  The aromas show lots of black fruits – dark cherry and blackberry.  There are also hints of french oak cedar.  The flavors show clean black fruits that seem to be the trademark of their vineyard.

2006 Trophy Reserve Shiraz ($40)

I get some hints of American oak coconut sweetness match with the plum character one expects from quality McLaren Vale Shiraz.  The tannin structure was well matched with the fruit and the finish was lingering.  Different to the Stevens Family wine but not necessarily better.

2009 Fleurieu Cabernet Sauvignon ($24)

Fruit from the Cool Mt. Compass area provides the clean black current fruit character with the cedar of French oak.  Soft tannins but there is a lingering finish.  A good Cabernet but I preferred the 2006.

2012 Vintage Fortified ($25)

Another new release – after the quality 2010 Vintage Shiraz I was really looking forward to this wine.  As expected I got plums here, but I did not expect the milk chocolate and cherry – yes, a bit like a cherry ripe.  This wine is more complex than the 2010 version, but the wines are so different that one wine is not necessarily better than the other.  There is sweetness here but the finish is very dry and long which indicates plenty of acid here.  When one tries such a good Vintage Port style it is difficult to understand why these wines are not produced more often.

2010 Vintage Liqueur Muscat ($20)

All about the clean sweet Muscat fruit here.  Yes the alcohol is obvious with a tingle on the nose and the warm finish but the hero of the wine is the fruit.  A wine with not a lot of oak influence but I know oak has played it’s part.  I also find the finish interesting in that there is plenty of acid here.  This acid cleans the ample sugar off the palate so the mouth is ready for more – bring it on.

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